Dublin Bathroom & Tiling Cost Guide

We don't publish a figure, and we'd be suspicious of anyone who does without seeing your room. The cost is shaped by the state of your subfloor and walls, whether the layout stays put, the condition hidden behind the old tiles, and the finishes you choose. Rather than a phone guess we'd only have to revise, Gerry surveys the actual bathroom and gives you an itemised written quote you can rely on. This page explains every factor that moves the number.

It depends on real, measurable things: the area being tiled, whether it's a straightforward straight lay or an intricate pattern like herringbone, the tile format (large-format and natural stone take more skill and time), and how much preparation the surface needs first. Because those vary job to job, we give a written quote after seeing the space rather than a fixed online rate. Preparation is always part of it and never the corner to cut.

Because no honest tradesman can quote your bathroom without seeing it. The biggest cost drivers are hidden — the state of the subfloor, damp behind the tiles, whether the walls are true — and none of that shows in a phone call. A cheap phone figure only gets protected later with change orders. Instead, Gerry surveys the actual room and gives you an itemised written quote you can trust, so the agreed price is the price you pay.

The cheapest quote is usually cheapest because it has quietly removed the invisible work — tanking in wet zones, priming absorbent surfaces, backer boards, movement joints, and timber pattressing behind grab rails. None of that shows on day one, but skipping it is exactly why a bathroom cracks, leaks or goes mouldy within a couple of years. A slightly higher quote that includes proper prep and waterproofing is genuinely the cheaper bathroom over its life.

Because it's a more involved build. A wet room needs a drain, a graded screed or former so the floor falls correctly, and full-room tanking rather than a simple tray. How much more it comes to depends heavily on your floor — especially over suspended timber in older Dublin homes — which is why it can only be quoted after a survey. See our wet room installation page for how that build is done properly.

Yes, considerably — when your tiles are sound and well-bonded and only the grout and silicone have failed, regrouting restores the surface for a fraction of the disruption of a retile. Retiling is only necessary when tiles are drummy, lifting or cracked, or when the waterproofing behind them has failed. Our tile & grout repairs page explains the difference.

Yes — a sensible contingency is wise on almost any Dublin bathroom, and more so in older housing stock. Victorian and Edwardian terraces and mid-century semis regularly hide surprises on strip-out: rotten timber under a leaking tray, bridged damp, or a subfloor that needs stiffening. A contingency means an honest surprise doesn't derail your project. We show you any genuine issue and price it openly before doing the work — it's never a blank cheque.

It does — relocating fixtures means new first-fix plumbing, possibly moving the soil stack, and chasing walls and floors that then need making good. Keeping your existing layout is the single biggest saving available on any refit. If your current arrangement works, we'll usually advise keeping it and spending the budget on finishes and proper prep instead.